Admit it. Most
shoulder armor you see at conventions looks cheesy, cardboard-y, heavy,
and is about as ungainly as anything you'll ever see. But it needn't be,
as you'll soon see.
Here are the steps I took to create my first stab at shoulder armor
using my foam and plastic method. The subject: Lina Inverse from Slayers.
A dose of cosplay related, otome games and walkthroughs, photography and other stuff that I love to blah blah blah
Showing posts with label lina inverse. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lina inverse. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Lina Inverse-Style Shoulder Pauldrons
Materials:
Wire # 16
Soldering pencil, solder paste and tin
Tweezers
Sandpaper # 100 and # 200 (so they say, are the gray and black)
Carpenter's white glue
Silicone gun + glue sticks
stucco= filling wall plaster
Spray paint or enamel (black and gold)
Cardboard
FOMIX
Paper
Brush
1 inch black elastic
Red christmas bulbs
What to do
0. Draw real size top and side view of 1 pad (they are symmetrical parts so right side equals left side)
1. Make profile with wire, folding each corner with tweezers and curve shaping a cylindrical object (this case, use a pot xD). Solder wire where each end point meets after bending. Remember putting solder paste after melting tin.
2. Add necessary guidance (welding) to generate the volume as well as drawing the side view. Horizontal and vertical guides.
3. Cover wire skeleton with FOMIX, pasting on back with silicone to each guide and edge.
4. Cut cardboard or FOMIX in triangular form, paste it on bulb wrapping it.
5. Equal surface with stucco (apply 5 coats and sanding, repeating the process several times) or newspaper (glued with carpenter gum, do not add water because this will delay the process.)
6.Cover bulb with paper and tape to prevent getting stained when you paint base in black and gold borders.
7. Join shoulder with black elastic, paste back of the piece with silicone.
8. Result = a happy Lina
It is a long process but here there is no Wonderflex and those wonderful materials. The finished product is a lightweight but rigid, with an extra layer of resin and is indestructible ^ ^, the wire can be replaced by sewing plastic guides but will not be as reliable structurally. Sorry if it is very hard xP.
Wire # 16
Soldering pencil, solder paste and tin
Tweezers
Sandpaper # 100 and # 200 (so they say, are the gray and black)
Carpenter's white glue
Silicone gun + glue sticks
stucco= filling wall plaster
Spray paint or enamel (black and gold)
Cardboard
FOMIX
Paper
Brush
1 inch black elastic
Red christmas bulbs
What to do
0. Draw real size top and side view of 1 pad (they are symmetrical parts so right side equals left side)
1. Make profile with wire, folding each corner with tweezers and curve shaping a cylindrical object (this case, use a pot xD). Solder wire where each end point meets after bending. Remember putting solder paste after melting tin.
2. Add necessary guidance (welding) to generate the volume as well as drawing the side view. Horizontal and vertical guides.
3. Cover wire skeleton with FOMIX, pasting on back with silicone to each guide and edge.
4. Cut cardboard or FOMIX in triangular form, paste it on bulb wrapping it.
5. Equal surface with stucco (apply 5 coats and sanding, repeating the process several times) or newspaper (glued with carpenter gum, do not add water because this will delay the process.)
6.Cover bulb with paper and tape to prevent getting stained when you paint base in black and gold borders.
7. Join shoulder with black elastic, paste back of the piece with silicone.
8. Result = a happy Lina
It is a long process but here there is no Wonderflex and those wonderful materials. The finished product is a lightweight but rigid, with an extra layer of resin and is indestructible ^ ^, the wire can be replaced by sewing plastic guides but will not be as reliable structurally. Sorry if it is very hard xP.
Credits goes to: Anne-annie-annet
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