Disclaimer: No copyright infringement intended. All rights are property of the proper artist.
I'm planning to use this plushie in one of my cosplans so I included it here ;)
This fellow comes with a seam allowance. If you print these patterns out at 8x10", you < should come up with a 1" grid, and he'll have a 1/4" seam allowance. That's a bit slim for some fabrics, which is why I do cutting-line patterns these days and let you choose your own. Also unlike my newer patterns, I've actually put grain line arrows on these pieces, showing the direction the fur should run.
Join the head and body patterns. Cut two of these (one reversed).
Cut one head gusset, two tails (one reversed) and four ears (two reversed). If you're using a fluffy fabric, cut the two ear linings out of something else - calico, felt, satin, whatever you like ear-insides to be.
Cut two of each of the legs (one reversed) and one of the underbody. Although there's a foldline, don't actually cut the fabric with it folded - trace half, flip the pattern on the foldline edge and trace the other half. The fur pile should run toward the back (right to left).
If you're using a fluffy fabric, especially if you have a wider seam allowance, shave it now. Be careful not to shave too far, or you'll have bald spots on the seams.
Sew the tail pieces together, leaving the base end open. Clip the inside of the curves and turn (a turning tool is useful here). Stuff lightly. Do the same with the ears, but don't stuff them. Sew the eye darts (the marked line is the same line).
Sew the head gusset to one body side piece - the center of the gusset should match the point of the nose, and the angle in the gusset near the eye should match the angle in the head side, and the point of the gusset should match the place where the two patterns were joined.
Match the front legs with the underbody gusset, RST, pin and sew. Match one rear leg - the gusset will only go partway across the top of the leg, so stop 1/4" from the end of the gusset. Match the other rear leg to the underbody+leg, matching the back top corners of the legs and making sure the front top corner is symmetrical with the first leg.
Match the underbody piece with one body side, RST, and pin - begin with the paws, and work out to the front and back ends of the underbody. Sew, then pin the other side, also matching the two body pieces along the dog's back, and the head gusset to the second body side. Pin the tail in the back seam, making sure it's aligned correctly (or wait and sew them on like the ears, which gives better control over placement and pose but is slightly more difficult). Sew all the way around, leaving a turning opening in the dog's back.
If you are using safety eyes/nose, you may install them now. Turn the body rightside out, stuff, and ladder-stitch the stuffing opening closed.
The ears are made like traditional teddy ears - sew the outside seams, leaving the bottom open, turn the ears, tuck in the seam allowance at the bottom and ladderstitch the ear closed. Then securely stitch the ears to the head, paying special attention to the corners and remembering that stuffed animals get picked up by their ears a lot.
Trim the fur around the face and paws as desired, embroider a mouth, and you're done!
As you may have noticed, this is a pattern for a monochrome wolf. To make color changes, cut the pattern pieces apart where you want the color to change, then trace new pieces adding a 1/4" seam allowance. If you plan to needlefelt the face, a la my Mexican Gray Teddy-Wolf, I strongly recommend doing this in the face area (even if you're making for instance an all-white wolf) and using wool or woolblend felt (not craft felt) for the face area. With color changes, this could be a wolf, a German Shepherd Dog, or many other prick-eared breeds.
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