Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Costume Tutorial: Kagamine Len

Boy-soprano Len hasn't quite grown into his pipes... or his clothes - so let's aim for a slightly too-big, boyish silhouette.

Check Your Coloring!
There's a big difference between Rin and Len. Even at first glance, the twin's uniforms have one noticeable difference. It's the coloring of their shorts. Looking closely, you'll see that the mismatch is because Rin's shorts are actually dark grey, while Len's costume is black. Purchased costumes tend to be made in pairs with the same fabrics, so accurate coloring will give you an extra home-made touch.

Kagamine Len Construction Point Check!!

Len's image is rail-thin, so keep that in mind when sizing. Since the character has a "cyber" feel, shiny fabrics like enamel are also an option for accents. Use whatever fits your own image of the character.




Let's start working with the Pattern Pieces!

Sailor Jacket
a loose-fitting sailor suit with and ill-fitting sillouette
Len's jacket fits him pretty poorly. In fact, he's practically swimming in it. Especially the sleeves should appear large, falling nearly to the elbow. If you use interfacing to stiffen the chest-plate, you can fold it to match the illustrations more closely.

Materials
white twill 140cmx130cm
black twill 140cmx60cm
yellow polyester 90cmx100cm
1 concealed fastener (zipper) (25cm)
yellow sailor tape 0.6cmx300cm (trim)
iron-on interfacing 130cm* (in some images, this is referred to as "biasing")
yellow fabric paint, san rubber or embroidery thread (for the symbol on the chest-plate)

((The rest of the tutorial assumes that individual pattern pieces have all been cut and (with the exception of the sleeve ends where they attach to the shoulders) have been finished. Most pieces shown have been finished with a zigzag stitch and any trims required have been added in advance.))

1) Sew Darts, Shoulders and the Right Side
After completing your darts, place your front and back jacket pieces together and sew as-shown.


2) Attach Zipper to the Left Side
Align your zipper on the left side so that the zipper ends just under the sleeve-hole and the zipper-pull will face outward on the finished jacket. Loosely connect the two shirt pieces with long, loose stitches to make sure the zipper will close without shifting.

3) Making the Sleeves
Assemble your sleeve cuffs and sew them on. Be very careful sewing curved parts on a sewing machine.

4) Hand-finish and Attach the Sleeves
Hand-finish sleeves, align and attach by machine (moving your cloth in a circle).


5) Sew Neckline Piece at the Shoulders
Attach biasing to the neckline pieces, and join them at the shoulders, interfacing-up. Finish both pieces with a zigzag stitch all the way around.

6) Make the Sailor Collar
Once you've finished the piece for the sailor collar, attach your interfacing to the outer piece, add the sailor tape trim then sew on trim and interfacing. Turn inside-out, align and sew the back and front collar pieces together.


7) Attach the Sailor Collar and Neckline
After pressing all of your pieces well with an iron, place your collar in place and stitch once around. Next, pin your neckline over top (the collar should be sandwiched between the shirt and neckline). Then sew the innermost neckline of all three pieces together with strong thread. Be careful when machine-sewing curves.

8) Make the Chest Panel
Using san-rubber, fabric paint or embroidery thread, add the bass-cleft to the chest panel. (If you need to, print or draw a guide shape in heavy black to place underneath, then trace through the fabric). *Note. san-rubber needs to be cut with an exacto knife and then applied by ironing.


9) Make the Tie
Attach interfacing to the back of your tie and fold the fabric as shown. Hand-sew with sturdy thread. Fold the tie to your final shape and hand-sew the back of the tie closed.

10) Attach Finishing Parts
 
Shorts
shorts so big that they need to be held up with a belt
We're going for the same look, so it's okay to make these low-rise. They should fall just above the knees when finished to balance out your leg-covers.


Materials
black twill 140cmx140cm
pocket fabric ("sureki") 90cm x 40cm
yellow vinyl 90cm x 150 cm
zipper 22cm long
60 gold studs .6cm diameter
yellow sailor tape .6 x 100cm
Non-stretch tape 1.2cm
*not mentioned, but required ~ interfacing

1) Add Tape Accents and Pockets

Add the sailor tape to the legs and attach pockets made from "sureki" fabric.

2) Sew Together Front and Back Legs
Align the front and back sides of each leg(inside-out) and machine-sew them together on the sides.

3) Join the Legs and Add the Zipper

Turn both legs inside out and align them at the center (you'll probably need to pin them) and sew them together up to the point where you'll install your zipper. Attach the fly piece, then use it to attach your zipper.



4) Attach the Waist-band
Iron the shorts with an iron then sew the band to the top of the shorts. Next, fold the belt over on itself (inside-out) and close the ends (where they will fasten). Turn the band right-side out and fold over the top and sew closed. Add a fastener hook.

5) Adding the Cuff-Belts
Fold both ends of the belt in on itself lengthwise and stitch shut on the top and bottom by machine. Measure and mark spots for 15 studs on the top and bottom of each leg-belt and attach.

Check!
Tools and Concerns for Attaching the Studs
You'll need a hole punch or screw punch to make holes in your vinyl for the studs to fit through, a handheld tool to push the studs in place (an indented chisel or small portable indented screwdriver will work), and a cushioned work-mat so that you don't mark the surface you're working on. It's okay if the holes you create are a bit too small for the studs, but be careful not to force them through as you might tear the vinyl.

6) Adding Belt Loops
Check your fit, then fold in and hand-sew the leg cuffs. Set leg-belts in place add add belt loops to the waist and legs as-shown. (You can sew the belts in place under the belt loops and use the loops to hide the stitches if you don't want them to shift).


That's it Hope this one helps you in making your own Kagamine Len costume =)

Credits to kiratsukai of cosplay.com for translating this kind of stuffs

1 comment:

  1. Can anyone out there help me make this The only thing I understand about this is the different colour of Rin and Len's shorts PLEAsE IMediate help needed!

    ReplyDelete